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Fortaleza is not often first choice for foreign visitors to Brazil's northeast, who prefer sultry Salvador, but it has long been a top holiday destination among Brazilians, mainly because it sits in the middle of an unbroken stretch of breathtaking beaches, including the famous Jericoacoara, that are regularly named among the world's best. Since being named a World Cup host city, Fortaleza has punched above its weight (it was first to complete its new stadium on time) but has also seen violent protests against Fifa's lavish spending during the Confederations Cup in June 2013.
The city – the first place in the country to abolish slavery, in 1884 – has several interesting museums and architectural gems, including the century-old Theatro José de Alencar, but its real charms are often best savoured outside, whether this involves selecting seafood to be freshly fried at a beach barraca, or shack, dancing forró until the early hours in one of the open-air clubs, or on the streets during the festas juninas, the month-long festivals commemorating three saints.
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